The Steinmorgen is a Rheingau premier cru (VDP Erste Lage), and Knyphausen’s dry Spatlese does the pedigree of this vineyard justice. A most generous juicy expression takes in the whole range from local peaches to exotic passion fruit. The vibrant acidity heightens the drinking pleasure, which is simply perfected by a tasteful contribution from the herb garden.
This loess-and-gravel vineyard behind the town of Erbach gave an exceptional Spatlese in 2012. It smells like fresh apples, crisp, sweet and acidic; it tastes of tree fruits, from quince through cherries. There’s a full complement of herbal notes, too, cilantro-earthy and savory, which keeps the wine balanced and points up the juicy fruit. And yet, for all that, it’s still young and somewhat closed, in need of another five to ten years in the cellar to reveal all its details.
The intense yellow 2013 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling trocken GG was fermented in oak and this is what you sniff and taste all the time even four days later. Although this is a serious, fresh, piquant wine with vibrancy and purity of fruit (tangerines, pink grapefruit, blood oranges) I find the oak influence slightly overdone and a little bit drying due to the oak tannins that bite in my palate. But watch out! I am pretty sure this is only a birth pain of a traditional estate that is under a new leadership and has only started recently maxing out the tremendous potential of its superb vineyards